Archive for the ‘ Life in Central America ’ Category

Latin America is a Backwater of the West

If I say this to my Latino friends, or even hint at it – they get furious. What do I mean by saying they are inferior?

But being a backward country has its advantages – as well as its disadvantages. They are painfully aware of what they perceive as their inferior status (their relative poverty) – and that is why they are so sensitive about it.

They are not so aware of the advantages of their culture – at least consciously. But many of them want to have it both ways – live for awhile up North, and then back for awhile in the South. And they used to do this frequently, before the border restrictions (imposed by the North) became more severe.

I can see the advantages clearly enough. The South is still people-oriented, while the North has become machine-oriented. Few Americans are aware of this – and almost no Latinos – who would like nothing more than become like the North – and cannot understand why they have not made this transition already.

Their culture has two layers. Basically it is derived from the Spanish and Portuguese cultures of the 16th Century – late Medieval cultures. This is covered by a layer of American popular culture – American clothing and music. They have no awareness of this split – and strongly resist any such knowing. Because their basic culture (late Medieval) forbids it.

Northern culture, by contrast, is used to social criticism – and indulges its intellectual and artistic minority – who have been doing this for centuries.

You may immediately counter this by saying that Latino intellectuals and artists have been doing this also. And you would be right – but you would also be wrong. And I will spend the rest of this posting explaining this.

I will concentrate on Literature, because that is something I know about – and because I have writers from the South and the North on my desk that I can compare easily.

The first book is Children of the Days by Eduardo Galeano, translated by Mark Fried – which I just bought because of an enthusiastic review in TomDispatch. After reading it for awhile, I can only wonder why he was so crazy about it. And be forced to the conclusion that has no understanding of Western literature – or of the West itself. In other words, he is a typical American of his time – understanding very little – and satisfied with that.

For comparison, I want to contrast the book Dickinson by Helen Vendler – about the American poet Emily Dickinson. I picked the poem The Tint I cannot take is best (page 298) simply because this is the next poem I planned to read before I set the book down and neglected it. As usual, Vendler’s comments are much longer than the poem itself. It begins this way:

Dickinson’s attempt to grasp the “Graspless” import of Nature begins in delight (as Frost says it should) but end in bitterness. Just as music seems to both elude and solicit formulation in words, so Nature keeps offering tints and arrays to the eye that seem to demand that the poet find their verbal counterpart.

She then goes on to refer to Emerson and Whitman and Keats – to put Dickinson into the larger cultural context of the West. This is easy because the North represents the West – the developed part of it. The North developed some heavy metaphysics - part of its cultural infrastructure - that the South (in the Inquisition) rejected entirely. And therefore does not have.

You may object that Latin America has its poets too – but they have not been not adequately appreciated by the North. I have just such a book on my desk – one that I got at a used book store – From Eve’s Rib by Gioconda Belli. A bilingual edition with Spanish on the left and the English translation on the right.

Gioconda also wrote the book The Country Under My Skin: A Memoir of Love and War - about her experiences in the Sandinista revolution in Nicaragua. It is excellent.

What it does not say is that since then she has lived mostly in the States – and only returns to Central America to visit occasionally. She knows that the States are where it is at. She still writes, but her audience is limited to Latin America.

My Computer has Died

And I am now using my old Windows Vista computer – and glad I kept it.

I will be buying a new one soon – and am now searching for the right one - and noticing that the prices have gone up. My new one (with all the neat new stuff that I want) will probably cost me $525.

My bank account has taken a lot of hits lately:

  • Without my knowing it, my post office box expired, and I had to pay $32 to renew it. The Post Office is is big pain down here – they have been opening my NetFlix returns and stealing the DVDs from them - unbeknownst to me, of course.
  • My Costa Rica Residency expired without my noticing it – which not only means a nasty fine ($135) – but also that I have to get a lawyer to make a Declaracion Jurada for me – explaining why I was so stupid. The lawyer will cost me at least $50 – and probably more.
  • I have to update my public health insurance – which is cheap enough ($55 a month) but I also have to go through the paperwork to make it possible to pay for it locally – since the organization I was using as my agent (Association of Residents of Costa Rica) has become more and more uncooperative.

Fortunately, I have enough reserves to tide me over.

But it is enough to make me wonder.

Obama’s Visit to Costa Rica

I have been hearing rumors about this, but I didn’t believe them. Today, the day of his visit, many of them have come true.

Many flights have been re-scheduled so that Obama’s plane can come and go whenever it pleases. Government employees have been given the day off – and deliveries of all kinds have been cancelled – to cut down on traffic jams in the capital.

Costa Rica wants very much to be like America. And they will do anything to make this clear.

This is smart. Costa Rica is the only country in Central American that has not been invaded by the American military. Nicaragua, by contrast, was invaded six times – with bloody consequences.

The Power Train of a Bicycle

This consists of a clever series of sprockets (disks with teeth on their perimeter) that the rider turns with his feet (usually three sprockets in a cluster) – a chain – and a more complicated set of sprockets on the rear axle (mine has eight of them). Plus a complicated mechanism to move the chain between the sprockets on the front and the back. This allows it to shift gears. The mechanism has to be adjusted frequently in hard usage – by your friendly mechanic.

Words are inadequate here, but anyone can easily see how it works in action – or better yet, feel how it works.

Why do I bring this up? Because yesterday the whole drive train had to be replaced on my bicycle.

Lots of people have bicycles, and lots of them will say how much they like them. But not very many will actually use them for hours every day. It is only a toy that they use occasionally.

Not me, as anyone in Orosi can tell you – I ride that thing, almost every day. And my drive train was worn out  - after five years of riding – much to the delight of my mechanic. Who charged me $50 for a new set. Everything was worn out – front and back.

This is not much money in the States, where labor is so expensive – but down here (where people are desperate for work) it is a minor miracle.

Dan Ariely: What makes us feel good about our work?

TED

This was a presentation made at TED Rio de la Plata - on the border between Argentina and Uruguay – both Spanish-speaking countries.

The audience were young professionals who were fluent in English – and who had probably worked in the States at various times – as the presenter had.

This was interesting to me because I live in Central America, in Costa Rica – which is not part of the Informational Economy – which consists of, most importantly, knowledgeable people.

I just talked to a young acquaintance, who is completely bilingual, and who is going to college, and studying programming – among other things. I was shocked to discover that he knew next to nothing about what was going on in the Computer world!

I get much of what I get on the Internet – from Aerocasillas – who flies what I get delivered in Miami – to the nearest large town, where I pick it up every week. Their web site is excellent – so they must have some good software engineers working on it. Probably somewhere in the States.

But only a small minority of Gringos and Ticos use it. The rest think it is too different.

And while I am at it – I might as well mention that only a small minority of people in the States are computer-knowledgeable.

Here we are in the Computer World – and most can only look at their smart phones – and marvel at them – having no idea how they work – and no desire to know how – or much of anything else.

What Has to be Done

It seems to me we have clearly reached a dead-end – where we cannot go any further. The only thing we can do is back up and try a different track – to use a railroading analogy.

But first we have to recognize where we are – and how hopeless it is. Note that little word we. To continue with the railroad analogy – it’s as if the train gradually disappeared as it went down the track. Like the Cheshire Cat.

One naturally wonders if reversing direction will make the train appear again.

But first, as I already said – we have to take stock of where we are. Is this possible? And is backing up possible? The answer to both questions, it seems to me – is “No.”

Some processes cannot be reversed – this is a mathematical and political fact. Once we have gone past a tipping point – there is no way back.

This does not mean the situation is impossible for everyone – some people (such as me) can survive nicely. And even benefit from what for most is a total disaster.

For example. I am reading The Selected Poetry of Rainer Maria Rilke, which includes an excellent Introduction that not only describes Rilke – but the poetry scene in his time. I am enjoying a breakfast, including my own version of the Latin American beans and rice – and some excellent coffee.

In ten years I have gone from being a total failure – in the larger world – to a modest success – in my own (much smaller) world.

The Significance of the Passion

When you live in Latin America, you live in a late medieval culture. A world that has not existed for five hundred years in the rest of the world. For them, the most sacred days in the year are Holy Thursday and Holy Friday – when Christ was tortured, humiliated and killed.

Latinos, being a traditional people, do not really understand this – indeed they are not too bright. They just know this period is important somehow – and set everything else aside for their religious observances.

In this posting I will review the reasons for the Passion.

First of all, Christ was part divine and part man. God had a son by a woman. This was common Greek mythology – but Christians made it something else. The Greek gods lived apart from man (except for an occasional sexual dalliance) and only interfered with human events occasionally. Usually to the detriment of the people involved. Greek religion consisted of mollifying the gods, so they would not be too angry.

The Hebrew God, the God of the Old Testament, was not very nice – especially towards women.

The people of the Mediterranean – especially the Eastern Mediterranean, who were under the ruthless dominion of Rome – needed a different kind of god. One who would be more human, and more interested in them.

The result, theologically speaking, was brilliant – at least for its believers. It made no sense to anyone else.

Christianity had a god who suffered – just as his people did. And who would reward them for their suffering – eventually.

Much later, Protestantism would downplay this part of Christianity – and emphasize success instead. Much to the horror of Catholicism. Violent religious wars – the worst in history- resulted. As Christian slaughtered Christian.

Latin America – safely isolated by the Atlantic Ocean – was unaware of this. For them, a religion based on suffering still made sense. There was still plenty of it around. An approach that tried to eliminate suffering did not interest them – they already had their own solution.

Eventually, they realized they were much poorer than the Protestant countries to the North – and imported its popular culture (and also Evangelicalism) thinking this would fix their problems.

It hasn’t and it won’t – because the underlying culture is still suffering-oriented. And backward – not forward looking.

This has its advantages – they are still people-oriented, and treat their children much better than the Gringos do. This is paradoxical – but observed easily enough.

Flaubert – The Despair of Everyday Life

The radio is playing loudly from the house next door – one of the curses of living in Latin America. Being able to ignore it is one of my most useful accomplishments.

I am reading Madame Bovary - in the new translation by Lydia Davis. This is Literature – with a capital L. Emma (Madame Bovary) is having an imaginary love affair with a local clerk, Léon. And she despises her husband, the local doctor in a provincial village.

I am struck, once again, by how some of the best insights into the feminine psyche come from masculine authors – and not from masculine philosophers, theologians, or psychologists – who do not seem to understand them at all – and do not want to.

I have know several women who also had to have an imaginary love affair going on. And several who despised their husbands – which seemed to be exactly what their husbands wanted.

Get the book – it doesn’t cost much.

Latin America After Chávez

NY Times

There have been no lack of articles about Chavez’s death. It has had the beneficial effect of showing the true colors of the organizations writing about him. The Times has been about evenly divided between the right and the left – with little concern for accuracy.

This article by Luiz Inácio Lula da Silva, the president of Brazil from 2003 through 2010 – translated from the Portuguese – is the best I have seen. The Times gets credit for providing it.

Is Good Social Change Possible?

I continue to read How to Change the World - where the author, David Bornstein, clearly believes it is possible. I am less optimistic – but I try to keep an open mind. So I read the next chapter in the book about rural electrification in Brazil – a subject I know something about, because I am a graduate electrical engineer myself.

I can see the social entrepreneur in this case, a guy named Fábio Rosa, has a viable technical solution – and knows what a viable business model looks like. He even understands the political difficulties involved – which he has solved by getting international support for his projects (Brazilian politics have disappointed him too often).

He certainly deserves supporting, because he addresses the most pressing problem in Latin American – the flood of poor farmers into the overcrowded cities. I am now willing to admit that social solutions are possible – in some situations.

But I cannot see anything like this working in Costa Rica – a much more affluent and educated country, which seems to have lost its way – after a brilliant start with its revolution in 1947 – which has been long-forgotten.

People continue to flood into the Central Metropolitan Area (commonly called San Jose) because that is where all the money (and all the jobs) are. There is no money in little towns like Orosi, where I live. Everyone commutes to work, making the traffic even worse. It is not uncommon for people to spend six hours commuting to a eight-hour a day job.

Any social change here has clearly been for the worse. And it has been that way for some time back in the States – a country that Costa Rica imitates in every way it can.

It now has cell phones everywhere – Ticos have become addicted to the things in only a few years. But cell phones have not made Costa Rica a better place. They have  just siphoned off some of their money into foreign companies – where is is not coming back any time soon.

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